"The most important thing to learn: It all starts with imagination and strong picture of you standing on the board surfing. And: It's all about having fun!"
Yeah, there it is again, the mantra of imagination. My trainer is Emilio. He and his wife operate a family business here in Pichilemu with all kinds of outdoor activities. Surfing, Hiking and cultural tours in cooperation with hotels. They have three kids, the oldest in kindergarten age.
The day started late 🙂 Breakfast at 10 am, chilling and preparing for the class and jump over to Punto de Lobos beach. A three minutes walk from my hotel. The weather is ok with not too much sun and „good waves for beginners“. I put on the suit which was really cozy and warm, even in the cold Pacific. We the walked the beach, had a short run to warm up and started dry exercise in the sand. Paddling technique, how and where to lie on the board and how to jump on your feet when the wave strolls and you are ready to surf.
Ok, to be honest: The kind of movement is not made for my body’s flexibility. Haha! It is like in Yoga classes: I just can’t bring one leg between my hands from a plank position. Ok, it is all imagination… I can imagine doing that and try to feel how it is to do that. But my body is not yet ready for such „stunts“ 😀
So I need 2-step-procedure to stand on the board. And reminded myself: That’s why you should sretch after each run, each hike and after waking up in the morning. Ok, dear universe… I got this now and promise to do my best in 2024!!!
But finally, I stand the last small white wave. Not elegant, not comfortable but with both feet on the board. Thanks, Emilio, for guidance and patience! Thanks, Valentina, to be so nice waiting with the kids and being so super kind! Tomorrow will be the next class and I will fall into sleep with me standing the waves on the board, with low center of gravity and not like the Statue of Liberty.