Görlitz, the easternmost city in Germany, is often described as a hidden gem – with a picturesque old town, historic buildings and a special flair that has even attracted Hollywood directors such as Wes
Anderson have been attracted here. But what remains when you leave the postcard idyll behind and dig deeper?
I lived in Görlitz for 15 years. I know the city and its contrasts. I know the people who walk past you with grim looks and seem to have no perspective. Today I’m here again to visit friends – and suddenly feel the desire to give this city a place on my travel blog. Because Görlitz is more than just beautiful facades and silence. There is also another side to it: creative, committed people who are passionate about creating space for art and culture. They give the region a face – a smile, warmth and the action it deserves. With incredible energy and commitment, they transform forgotten places into meeting places full of life, cafés and restaurants that invite you to linger.
A walk through the city
When you leave the railway station, the first impression is sobering: dilapidated buildings are lined up one after the other, people hurry past without a word and the tram rattles along like a relic from times gone by. For a moment, I am overcome by the question: does the region make people the way they are, or is it simply in them? This unanswered question accompanies me on my way to the old town centre.
The old town – an open-air museum full of contrasts
A walk through the old town is impressive: St Peter’s Church towers majestically, the restored façades glow in soft pastel colours and the cobblestones are still shiny from the morning rain. The streets are like an open-air museum where every corner tells a story. But even here, the silence is almost palpable. Only a few pigeons flutter up, my footsteps echo off the walls – hardly anyone is out and about.
St Peter’s Church shines briefly in golden light as the sun breaks through the clouds. The old department stores and historic vaults are waiting to be revitalised. They are silent witnesses to a past in which Görlitz flourished as an important trading town on the Via Regia. Today, the city is struggling with emigration and economic stagnation. It is as if time has stood still here – and yet there are always flashes of life: small cultural events initiated by young, creative minds who are breathing new life into the town.
Beyond the scenery – reality and potential
On the second day, I take a look across the Neisse to Zgorzelec, the Polish sister city. The open border and the bridge symbolising Europe create a connection – and yet the crossing feels like a step into another world. Zgorzelec is rougher, livelier, louder. Back in Görlitz, I am once again enveloped by an almost deafening silence, reminiscent of a forgotten place. A vibrant exchange between the two cities could bring so much more life – such as at the Old Town Festival in August, when people from both countries celebrate together.
A real highlight is the Museum of Cultural History, which lovingly tells the rich history of the region and shows that Görlitz has retained its pride despite everything.
My conclusion: A city full of contradictions – and that’s exactly why it’s so exciting
Görlitz is not a place that welcomes you with open arms – the city challenges you to understand it. Two days here are a journey into a world that oscillates between past and future. The architecture is breathtaking, the tranquillity can be a balm – but the emptiness and traces of stagnation don’t leave me cold.
Görlitz is not for Instagram likes and perfect moments. It’s a city that makes you think, that asks you to look deeper. It has weaknesses, yes – but also a wonderful magic that won’t let you go.
Pack your camera, lace up your shoes and come here. Find out what Görlitz does to you – and if you need help planning your trip, I’ll be right by your side. Let’s discover together what this fascinating city has to offer!
My restaurant recommendations
- Casa Nova: Heavenly homemade pasta and delicious pizza in a variety of flavours. Cosy ambience. You can find it on the Untermarkt: Here
Website: https://casanova.restaurant/startseite - Restaurant Horschel: The Horschel restaurant is chic, elegant and sophisticated with dishes for the gourmet among you. The team focuses on the highest quality from the region. You can also find it on the Untermarkt, directly in the Hotel Emmerich: Here
Website: https://horschel-restaurant.de/ - Restaurant Lucie Schulte: French modern cuisine, an institution in the city, located here for a long time. Lucie Schulte can also be found on the Untermarkt, just pass through the whispering arch and you will find yourself in a quiet inner courtyard: Here
Website: https://lucieschulte.de/
My hotel recommendations
- Hotel Emmerichs: Chic and elegant, located directly on Untermarkt in the centre of the historic old town: Here
Website: https://emmerich-hotel.net/de/ - Hotel Paul Otto: Modern and bright rooms in the cross vault, directly above the Jewish baths and close to the beautiful Nikolaivorstadt: Here
Website: https://www.hotelpaulotto.de/ - Hotel Börse: Each room is individually and cosily furnished. The palace sits enthroned in the centre of the Untermarkt: Here
Website: https://www.boerse-goerlitz.de/